Legend has it that the 318 Fathers (see walk 18) landed in the dead of night a Pissouri, making their way to Alektora, where they were greeted by the crowing of a cockerel, before going on to Archimandrita to meet their sad fate. Was there a jetty down there in the bay at that time, or just an open shore as now, where sailing ships and galleys could anchor a little way out, sending in small boats with their cargo and passengers?

Whatever the case, the bay was probably the last good landing place before Paphos, the sheer cliffs of Cape Aspro then the rocky, exposed shores of Aphrodite too treacherous in the surf to invite small ships. This walk takes you out over the 200m cliffs west of Aspro and into a hidden valley. It includes the descent of a ridge as sharp as Striding Edge and some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in Cyprus, and I include the Akamas and Cape Greco.

Leave the Pahos road and follow the road leading up to Pissouri. Before entering the village, branch right on a steep road leading up onto a scarp overlooking the main road. A dirt road leads up out along this edge and there are fine views, but stay on the paved road that curves back into Pissouri. Take a sharp right at a small general store. This leads out in the direction of the pylon on the summit of Trachonas. Park on a large open space opposite a new bungalow.

A rough farm track leads off towards the sea about 50 meters before the parking place. Follow this through a landscape of scrub and carob trees. You can see Troodos in the distance and nearer to the East, the cliffs of Episkopi, Pissouri Bay and Akrotiri. The sheer precipices ahead dwarf the cliffs between Pissouri and Avdimiou, spectacular walking themselves.

The track contours out and, just before a collection of rough sheds overlooking a deep valley, a goat track climbs gently to the right. Follow this onto the plateau then strike out in the direction of the sea. It is rough, wind-blown terrain with small bent bushes and shrubs. Semi wild goats browse, eyeing you with the curiosity of deer. I raised a couple of fine grey hares up here too. They made off through the scrub not too fast, but taking no chances, beautiful elusive movers.

Continue as indicated on the map, round the heads of a couple of deep valleys running out to the sea. Soon you will strike the cliff path. Usually rank after rank of breakers come marching in to pound the case of the mudstone cliffs 200 meters below. Occasionally you will find it calm, and the sea a wonderful coral blue. The path follows the edge of primeval magnificence.

Now comes the descent. A track form the pylon joins the path, leading out to the end of the headlands. Far below waves break on a shingle beach and beyond further outcrops face the elements. The path down follows a sharp ridge with scattered pines on the sheltered side and bare eroded gullies on the other.

Even a sky-diver could hardly avoid a sudden thrill of vertigo here, but do not be put off, alternative paths have been worn by goats down the landward flanks. The bottom section becomes less sharp, but the going remains loose and stony, and care should be taken as you make your way down to the crescent shaped beach.

It is a secluded shingle strand where several valley’s meet. Marked bermlines indicate the occasional power of the waves. With luck though, you will find, as I did, the water placid and amenable after your dusty descent.
What? … You have forgotten your swimming gear? Well never mind, there is no one about!

The return route takes off up a steep eroded cutting at the far end of the beach. Soon you come out onto a proper dirt road, which meanders upwards along the flank of a deep valley. Crickets scream in the carobs, but air funneled into the valley makes the climb tolerable. Eventually the top is reached in a col overlooking deep-cut gorges and, in the distance, the Paphos road leading down to the Rock of Aphrodite.

Go right here, still climbing for a short distance. Stunted umbrella pines provide shelter for the picnicker. You can follow the track all the way back to the village, enjoying the views out to the north. Alternatively abandon the track on reaching some extensive goat pens and you will fid another farm road leading back to Pissouri. From here it is a simple matter of following the pylon road back to your car.