Just every now and then it is well worth 'getting away from it all' and relaxing in one of the wonderful little villages in Cyprus where time really does seem to stand still! After the hustle and bustle of the main towns in Cyprus nothing beats relaxing in the shade of the citrus trees listening to the sound of the birds. For an increasing number of people from countries in northern Europe the temptation sounds so good that an increasing number are booking holidays with Cypriot agro-tourism companies that specialise in holidays in the villages of the Paphos District.

Villages with a view....

Pano and Kato Akourdhalia are two pretty little villages that are situated high on the Laona Plateau, fringing the Akamas peninsula, north-west of Paphos. Both villages offer splendid views over the wide Khrysochou valley towards the foothills of the Troodos mountains and these are particular dramatic at sunset. It is a great idea to plan a glass of wine watching the sun sinking and enjoying the heightened fragrance of the herbs and orange trees as dusk falls....

The name 'Akourdhalia' is taken from the local dialect for 'wild garlic' which grows in abundance in the surrounding fields.Often when there are twin villages close to each other, the prefixes 'Pano' {meaning 'above'} and 'Kato' { below!}are used to distinguish them. These villages are at their absolute best in the springtime when they are shrouded by a veil of the prettiest almond blossom. Having said that they are beautiful all year round as they are always perfumed by citrus blossom and wild herbs, and in the winter months the smell of wood smoke from countless open hearths smells good too!

Treasures of Pano Akourdhalia.

Both the villages are small, and some years ago the Laona Project helped to breathe a fresh air of optimism into them. The Laona Project was a successful scheme that helped to restore and repair old buildings in five of the Laona villages. The project encouraged agro -tourism in the area, and gave financial support to the craftsmen. The schoolhouse in Pano Akourdhalia was transformed into a herb garden where visitors can wander and buy a variety of fresh herbs. The pretty little 16th century church of Khryselousa was renovated. This church was built near the point where two streams meet and the church is dwarfed by a huge olive tree and there is an old stone olive press nearby.

Time to head down the hill....

The winding little road that leads down to Kato Akourdhalia is picturesque with traditionally styled whitewashed houses standing amongst the almond trees. Both villages have a population of about fifty each - who are always delighted when visitors are interested in their village.

And to explore a little museum....

There is an interesting little folk art museum high on the hillside in the old school house. Access can be tricky as the key is held by the village Mukhtar {mayor}, but his whereabouts are usually known at the village coffee shop! Inside the museum there are all sorts of interesting artefacts from years gone by, many of which were used to cultivate small areas of land with wheat, chickpeas and barley. There are hand ploughs with stout wooden shafts and several large metal sieves used for sifting the soil. There are traditional costumes too, and there are faded old photographs of the village men resplendent in their vrakas and stout leather boots and the women in dresses of striped hand-woven cotton with a matching headscarves and large protective aprons. The villagers would wear these costumes for all big celebrations and would weave the cloth on large wooden looms like the one that stands proudly in the corner as well as making colourful rugs for the walls and floors of their homes.

And an interesting oven and still...

Outside the museum, a traditional clay bread oven can be seen with its smaller side oven that is used to cook the popular local dish 'kleftiko', which is chunks of lamb that are baked slowly in terracotta pots with marjoram. Close by, stands a zivania still which was used at the end of the grape harvest to make the local variety of 'moonshine' which is certainly heady stuff, but is credited with all types of medicinal properties!

And further on to the perfect place to stay....

At the bottom end of Kato Akourdhalia there is a cluster of renovated buildings close to the road. The Amarakos Inn used to be the village manor house and has a rich history dating back over a hundred years. Some years ago, the Economidiou family who have always lived there, decided to renovate the building and convert it into a group of self-catering suites for holidaymakers with a restaurant downstairs offering the very best in traditional style cuisine. The inn is perfect for everyone! The rooms are comfortable and have been furnished with traditionally styled iron bedsteads and soft furnishings and have refrigerators and cookers too - but cooks need holidays too? It is far more relaxing not to cook and to just enjoy Angela's wonderful home cooking! Meals at the moment are 'al fresco' on the spacious terrace and there are some excellent Paphos wine in store to accompany the feast Angela has in store for guests! Angela's cooking is strictly seasonal and includes many Cypriot specialities including Sheftalia, Afelia and a variety of delicious vegetable dishes including mushrooms and aubergines, and again many seasonal dishes..

Why Kato Akourdhalia?

The village is a popular destination for many visitors with special interests. Cyprus lies on the main migration path between Europe and the Nile delta. Every spring and autumn, millions of birds fly over the island, many of them resting awhile in the rural areas. Ornithologists are delighted to see colourful and rare species in the countryside surrounding the villages and are keen to exchange tales in one of the coffee shops. Botanists can find many rare and beautiful flowers in the hedgerows including many different orchids. Between the two villages lies the deserted gorge of Kyparissia, which takes its name from the slender cypress trees that grow on its banks. It is the perfect place to sit awhile to admire the natural beauty and is always a popular spot for artists and photographers alike.

A holiday that is perfect for everyone...

Relaxing at the inn and enjoying a swim in the pool that has the most spectacular view across to the foothills of the Troodos is fun in itself. For children there is a new play area too. Importantly the Inn is the perfect base for those who enjoy walking as there are numerous little tracks to follow amidst the beautiful unspoilt countryside. One track, on the outskirts of Kato Akourdhalia leads to the pretty whitewashed church of Ayia Paraskevi. This tiny church, with its tall domed roof, clings to the hillside high above the gorge at the point where two streams converge. According to villagers the church dates back to the fifteenth century. Simply decorated there is a stone altar inside with the remains of an old icon dedicated to Our Lady. The church was restored a few years ago in memory of George Yiordamlis, late husband of the Director of the Laona Project. On the opposite bank the remains of the old water mill can be seen and not far away the old miller's house. A road close to the inn leads to another pretty village - Miliou - that has a large number of citrus trees and a rugmaker! Whilst further afield there is the market town of Polis Chrysochou and the fishing village of Latchi, both waiting to be explored - no wonder most holidaymakers run out of days for all they want to do! I'm lucky because I'll be able to creep up for another weekend 'far from the madding crowd' very soon!...

* The Amarakos Inn, Kato Akourdhalia telephone 26 - 633117 or e-mail Rula at the inn - amarakos @amarakos.com.
* Z & X villas have beautiful villas in a number of the villages of the Paphos District. They are individual and not in a complex and have been built so that they blend in perfectly with their surroundings.
* The Cyprus Tourist Organisation has a brochure featuring a wide range of beautiful self-catering properties in a variety of villages.