For those who enjoy a browse in the old part of Paphos {known locally as Ktima}, it is good to know that when you are weary and ready to relax with a long cool drink over a delicious and very traditional Cyprus–style lunch, the perfect restaurant is just a stone’s throw away…

The Laona Café –Restaurant does not get any passing trade. Its patrons have to know exactly where to find it as it is tucked down one of the side streets that branch off Makarios Avenue! Nevertheless it has a high number of regulars including holidaymakers, local office workers, dedicated shoppers who live locally, and one particular MP who makes a point of visiting it whenever he is in the town!
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If you decide to visit the Café-Restaurant, you will find it open from 11.00 a.m, although a peep through the glass will reveal Chris Karouzis, and his wife Koula are already hard at work, preparing food ‘fit for a king’! They put a great deal of effort into their cooking, and everything is painstakingly peeled, chopped and stirred in the same traditional way as their mothers used to cook! Parking can be tricky in the old town, so it is best either to find a space in the car park close to the police station and start of Makarios Avenue, or in the large car park that is close to Paphos Street. Either way a brisk walk down Makarios Avenue is required, but after all, it’s a great way to build up an appetite! Good timing is also of the essence because except for Wednesday {which is half-day closing} there are only a few tables left after 1.15 p.m!

The Laona Café-Restaurant is situated in the last right-hand side street –Votsi- that is just before Makarios Avenue swings right in front of the municipal market. The café-restaurant is next to a clothes shop where an array of brightly coloured clothes flutter in the breeze, obscuring the view! You might just spot the board with coloured chalk writing, proclaiming what’s on the menu and see the steep steps leading into the restaurant. The Laona, is affectionately named after the plateau that Chris’s home village stands on.

Coming in from the bright sunshine, it takes a few moments to adjust to the coolness of the large dining room and its dim light. As you pause to do so, a hand is extended for shaking, and after some words of welcome you are shown to an empty table….

Chris and Koula are warm friendly people who have got to know their customers well over the years and greet them all with their warm and generous Cypriot hospitality. Looking around the Laona, reveals that it is simply decorated, with cream walls covered with all kinds of farming implements and local style corn dollies. On either side of the room there are two large mirrors, each surrounded by a hundred faded photographs of the many friends that they have made over more than 16 years at The Laona and a few faded clippings from local newspapers. The couple have been in the restaurant business for more than 25 years now, but the style of cooking that they learned as youngsters has firmly remained the cornerstone of their repertoire.

Chris, who is from the Laona village of Pano Arodhes, learned to cook from his mother and other female relatives who, like all villagers, cooked an array of dishes that reflected the passing seasons. Living in an isolated village has meant that until recently the villagers have had to be almost self-sufficient, and they have relied on the meadows and hedgerows for herbs, mushrooms and horta {salad greens}. Koulla makes a wide range of delicious dishes using different beans and pulses, which again reflects her rural upbringing.

Chris and Koola, demonstrate teamwork at its best! They are real perfectionists when it comes to food, and they believe in giving their customers ‘value for money’- most of their dishes cost under a ‘fiver’! They are amongst the first people in the local market when it opens and quickly do a survey to see what seasonal fruits and vegetables are good quality and from this they quickly confer to decide on the day’s menu! Chris loves to experiment, and fresh herbs and spices in particular attract him, and he loves to try different combinations in his repertoire of much-loved recipes. Together they visit their butcher, who has sold them meat since the first day they opened, so knows that Chris insists on the best.

As soon as the get back to the restaurant they quickly work together to prepare a number of casseroles. They both firmly believe that slow cooking is essential as this gives flavours the best chance to develop. Chris marinates many of the meats for a whole day before they go in the casserole, and it is true that many of their customers do comment on how beautifully tender the meat tastes – which he reckons is from the addition of local wine to the marinades! After all, his home village is in one of the best grape-growing areas of Cyprus! He will admit though, that where rabbit is concerned milk is perfect for marinating the meat for delicious results!

Later in the morning, Chris usually begins preparations for the next day, whilst Koulla prepares the variety of seasonal vegetables for lunch and of course plenty of village-style salad! Chris makes his own chicken pane, which is always a great favourite and has a delicious flavour from the oregano and cinnamon in the marinade. Amongst the many other delicious dishes to choose from there is usually pork in white wine with vegetables, casseroled liver {marinating the liver is essential’ says Chris!}, chicken casserole, Kleftiko and Afelia. In the summer months Chris often uses a barbecue at the back of the restaurant so that his customers can enjoy the best souvla! Koulla always makes several vegetarian dishes - one of the most popular is louvi mavromati met lahana which tastes marvellous, eaten in the ‘true village way’ with plenty of lemon juice and olive oil. Although the Laona does have menus, Chris prefers to talk with all his customers, describing each dish, so that they are confident of their choice.
no wonder that they have recently been featured in several leading travel publications recently!

If Koulla has had some spare time in the morning there is a tempting local pudding like mahallepi or koukoularaki to enjoy, if not a plate of chilled fruits from their village is served as a welcome finale. Once most of the guests have been served, Koulla often finds that Chris has gone missing and that suddenly she is in charge of both the kitchen and ‘front of house’. He has been tempted to pull up a seat and join in the lively conversation at one of the tables, especially if it is about politics or local events!

The Laona Café- Restaurant 6 Votsi, Ktima, {Paphos Old Town}. It is open Monday – Saturday 8.00 a.m.- 3.00 p.m. Dress is as casual as you like! Telephone 06 – 937121