In many villages of Cyprus long rolls of absorbent paper will soon be stretched out on the ground and covered with the small green sultana grapes that are currently being harvested for export. At the end of the month, the villagers will harvest the rest of the grapes that are destined to be dried for sultanas. They will spread them carefully on the paper and then spend their time removing the stalks.

They then have to gently turn the grapes each day for about eight days so that they shrivel just a little, turning a rich shade of brown and becoming the most delicious sultanas - this is when the bonus of the later harvest will reaped, as the sultanas will contain a higher concentration of natural sugar and be sweeter tasting than the earlier ones picked for export as table grapes.

The process of drying fruit in the warm sunshine has been attributed to the Persians, and the first description of how black grapes could be dried in the sun to make raisins was written more than 2,000 years ago. Certainly in Cyprus, drying fruit in the sun has been done for several hundred years - and will continue as long as there is an abundance of juicy grapes! Grapes that are dried lose 75% of their body weight in the process. Before the grapes are laid in the sun, they are first dipped in potassium carbonate mixed with a little olive oil and water. This cleans the fruit well and helps the sultanas to keep their beautiful golden colour as they dry.

The Sultana grape which is small and seedless, is the main type of white table grape grown, and traditionally, those grown in the vineyards around Pissouri are the first to be harvested. Many of the grapes find their way to Europe, and time is of the essence to ensure good quality, the grapes must be harvested and dispatched within the week. Usually more than 30% are enjoyed locally, with half as much again carefully preserved for the winter months, either by canning or drying, which contains their natural sweetness.

Everyone in Cyprus enjoys a handful of sweet sultanas to eat, and they are equally delicious when accompanied by a handful of almonds. Sultanas are used in local cooking, particular in the winter when housewives everywhere cook their Christmas cake. - and make a wish for the sunshine to return soon as they add their homemade golden sultanas to the cake mixture.

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